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FiTech EFI – Basic Setup Instructions

These are a basic overview of the most common setup questions.

Resetting to a stock calibration:

From the main menu go to the very bottom and select Write Cal To ECU. Once in this menu scroll down to the second to last selection, it should say Default v8 T195. Once on this file select it and it will download to 100 percent. After this is done it will revert to the main menu. Now go to Go EFI Initial Setup, then Engine Setup, now input all of the parameters that are needed for your application, making sure to save each one individually.

After you have entered your information and saved it go up and select Dash Board. Once in dashboard turn the ignition key off and wait for all the data to black out. Once this happens turn the ignition key to the on positon and start the car.

IAC Steps:

Turn the driver’s side throttle adjustment screw IN (clockwise) half a turn to start with, with that done turn the key on and go to dashboard and find TPS and make sure it reads zero. If not, then shut the key off and wait for the numbers to go black then turn the key on again. Once that reads zero start the vehicle and find IAC Steps on dashboard. This number needs to be within 3-10 at warm idle. If the number reads zero then slowly turn the screw OUT (counter clockwise) until the IAC steps reads between 3-10. If the number is above 10 then shut the vehicle off and turn the screw IN as stated above and repeat the process until the IAC steps are between 3-10.

Reset Learn:

All Fitech EFI systems have learning procedures that the system uses to adjust the active fuel tables it is using for operation. Sometimes if there are outside problems such as bad misfires, exhaust leaks, or any other situation that could cause poor readings on the O2 sensor, the system will try to compensate in order to keep the car running. If this happens it alters the fuel map in ways that may not be optimal for proper running the engine normally.

To reset the learn is a very easy procedure. Go into the Go EFI Initial setup then find Reset Learn. Once in that menu find Reset All Learn, highlight this and push right on the joy stick to go to #1, then save that to the ECU by pressing IN on the joystick. Once that is saved go back to the main menu, and then up to Dashboard and select it. Once on dashboard turn the key off and wait for the numbers in the value side to go black. This mean the system has saved. You have now reset the learn function.

Data Logging:

Data logging is a useful tool for diagnoses and tuning. It allows you to check how the many functions the system can read and go through them point by point. This allows for exact adjustments to be made

When the vehicle is running go onto the dashboard screen and press the joystick on the right of the screen IN and a message will pop up saying Data Log On. Now you will drive the car and get it to have the issue you are having. Once you finish the drive you will press the button again and this will save the data log. Then you can turn the vehicle off and wait 15 seconds for the data on the dashboard to go black. Once this happens you can take the handheld to your PC and plug in the USB cable and handheld. The handheld will light up with three menu options, USB mass storage is at the top, select this. You should see a prompt on your PC to open the handheld folder, if not go to My Computer and you should see a removable drive, select it. Once the handheld folders come up on screen find the folder labeled log_file. Select this folder and inside you should see several files inside that say Dashboard, you can click on these and they will bring up an Excel file showing the data you have recorded. You can also copy and paste these files and send them to our technicians to look at as well.

Save your current settings and tune:

To save a tune first turn the key to the On position, not running. Then find Read Cal from ECU on the main menu. Then select it, once in this menu highlight one of the backup files you wish to save to and then either press OK on the screen or push the joystick IN and it will save all your current settings and parameters.

Cranking fuel adjustments:

With the key on go to the Go EFI Tuning menu, find Crank and Warm up. There you will see three cranking fuel selections. For cold starts add or subtract fuel from Crank fuel 65f, for hot starts add or subtract fuel from crank fuel 170f. Changing these settings should help with your start up issues along with setting the IAC. A good starting point is to change the settings in intervals of 10 to find which way you need to adjust the system to work better.

Accel pump/ Fast Accel adjustment:

If the system is having a hesitation or bogging issue, and you IAC steps are between 3-10 at warm idle, then your next step would be to adjust the accel pump function to increase or decrease the fuel added on acceleration. To start with turn the key to the on position and then find Go EFI Tuning on the main menu and press enter. Then find Accel pump and press enter. You will see a menu with multiple different settings, you need to focus on the Accel pumps (20f, 65f, 170f) and Fast Accel (20f, 65f, 170f). These setting adjust how much fuel, at varying temperatures, the system injects when you accelerate. Accel pump is used for any normal throttle input, Fast Accel is for any fast throttle inputs or Wide Open Throttle.

Hesitation: If the vehicle has a hesitation (when you step on the throttle and the engine does hangs and/ or almost dies and then suddenly take off) this normally is a lack of fuel so you would fix this by increasing the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue to reside in.

Bogging/engine loads up/slow to respond: If the vehicle is bogging (when you step on the throttle and the engine is slower/sluggish to come up to a higher rpm) this is normally caused by over fueling. To fix this you would need to reduce the amount of fuel it is injecting as an accel pump shot. To do this this decrease the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue to reside in.

Decel Fuel Cut Off:

When you let off throttle and decel with your vehicle the EFI will reduce fueling to prevent popping and an over rich condition that would occur if the fueling continued as it normally would. Depending on the size of your engine, camshaft specs, engine temp, gearing, and several other factors like environmental conditions, you may have either too much or too little fuel cut on decel.

In order to change the amount of fuel it applies you must go to Go EFI Tuning and then find Fuel Cut Control. Inside this menu you will see an option called DFCO Return fuel, this number represents the amount of fuel the system will inject when it you start to give the vehicle throttle again. If you are having a hesitation when getting back in the throttle then add to the DFCO Return fuel to give the engine more fuel when transitioning back to acceleration. You may also need to adjust your accel pump settings to help with this transition as well.

Choosing a cam selection:

Cam selection is based on vacuum load of the engine. Cam 1 is for 15Hg or above, Cam 2 is for 10Hg to 15hg, Cam 3 is 8Hg to 10Hg, Cam 4 is 8Hg to 6Hg. These are estimates and you may need to switch between them if the vacuum load is between two different cam settings to get the engine to run better for your application.

Idle Return:

If the engine is not returning to idle quick enough for your liking or is dropping too quickly and killing the engine then you may need to adjust the rate at which the injection system comes to an idle. To do so you need to go to Go EFI Tuning, then find and select Idle Control. Once in this menu you will see several settings, the only one we are going to work with is Decel open IAC. This number should be at zero as a base setting, by going negative you are reducing the amount of time it takes to return to Idle, and by going positive you are increasing the time it takes. Normal procedure of adjustment is to add or subtract 10 to start with and then adjust it to your liking or what the engine needs. Then once the setting is input save it to the ecu by pushing the joystick IN, the handheld will show Send To ECU Successful. Once this is done make sure to go back to the dashboard and turn the key off until the numbers clear out on the value side. This shows that the system has saved.

AFR Target Adjustment:

AFR: Air Fuel Ratio. Some vehicles may have greater needs for fueling that the self-learn may not be able to adjust in a great enough amount to operate correctly right out of the box. The injection unit is always trying to maintain a targeted AFR throughout its operation. It is either adding or taking away fuel at any given time from its current fuel table in order to do this. The AFR target is what the computer is constantly adjusting for (the higher the number the more lean the mixture, the lower the number the more rich the mixture is), but some engines need different fueling depending on the CID and cam they have. To adjust these numbers you must go to our Go EFI Tuning menu then to AFR targets, typically adjusting any AFR target should be done .01 at a time either up or down as the AFR has drastic effects on how the engine runs.

Once in this menu you will see 10 settings you can adjust. Number 1 is for Idle AFR which can range from 13.4 to 14.7 on average depending on the engine. Adjusting this setting will help idle quality and takeoff from an idle. The 1100, 3000, 6000 at 45kpa cruise are your cruising AFR ratios, these can vary from 13.8 to 14.7 on average depending on the engines needs and your desired fuel economy. The cruise AFR only effects cruise so it will not affect your acceleration or other AFR settings. WOT 1100, 3000, 6000 are your acceleration enrichment settings and are used for adjusting the desired fueling for accelerating under either part throttle or WOT. The average for these settings only ranges from 12.4 to 12.7, any accelerator needs beyond that will require one of our technicians to go over with you. Boost 1100, 3000, 6000 180kpa should stay within 11.5 to 11.7 on most engines with boost, any further adjustments to your boosted AFR settings should be brought up with one of our technicians.

185 comments on “FiTech EFI – Basic Setup Instructions

  1. Looking at the 1200 power adder. Will this system work with MSD 6 btm? Thanks J

    1. Yes it will.

  2. WI’ll a dual plane intake work? System is going on a 1977 bronco

    1. Dual Plane intakes work GREAT!

  3. With the new software. How do I control the idle returning time?

    1. Follow these steps on the handheld

      1. Go to GO EFI TUNING
      2. Idle Control
      3. Decel open IAC
      4. lower this value. Try -10

    2. Is there new software available?

      1. We intend to release a new version of software shortly that changes the way that timing control and idle control are setup.

    3. Bryce, I have a 600 power adder, running 2 fans no ac. I am using timing. I have all set and during my initial learn, I have randomly shut down 2 times while watching idle for 30 min. I drove 3 miles to gas up and on return I died while running steady 45mph. did not start right back up but after about 1 minute fired up and drove home. I suspect its electrical as it didn’t even sputter. The handheld never went out so I think the ecu keeps power. Any thoughts on what to look at?

      1. Keep an eye on rpm when this happens and also check fault codes. You can get RPM interference from the two wire distributor so twist the leads from the distributor to reduce the possibility of this. Also if you are using a CDI box be sure its wiring is routed separately from the EFI wiring.

  4. I’m working on an engine for Terry Slaton with a go street 400hp. Some other shop installed it but could not make it run correctly. Terry says the engine is a 350ci out of a 1992 chev truck originally with tbi. I have adjusted the timing(hei not computer controlled) I reset the ecu to stock calibration and started from there. I have it running quite smoothly at 14.7/1 afr, have set iac to 10 with electric fan on. My problem now is after engine is off 5 to 10 minutes it will start and die. I have adjusted cranking fuel from -50 to +40 with no change. any ideas? thanks,
    Dallas Haner

    1. Depending on how the fuel system is plumbed you may be running into a vapor lock issue. Another possibility is loss of a RPM signal. Look at RPM on the dashboard of the handheld during cranking. You should see a cranking rpm even if the engine doesn’t start. This could point to a failing ignition module.

  5. Do you have new basic setup instructions for the new software?
    I have not found how to adjust the idle return commands in my handheld control. The “Decel Open IAC” option is not there.

    1. If you have a Go Street EFI the Decel Open IAC adjustment is in the Pro Calibration. This can be turned on by going to Display Setup and marking Pro Tuning to “show” and the menu will pop up in the Main Menu.

  6. Will this work on a stock 350? Literally nothing special, just a stock probably 180 horse 350. Flat tops 882 heads with a dual plane intake, I’ve purchased your setup off of eBay. It’s the. 311727171296 part number.

    1. Not only will this system work… Most likely you wont have to adjust a thing because we run every system that leaves our facility on a SBC with a mild cam.

  7. Hello there, I have few questions. Start off with I can’t seem to get the iac steps to 3-10 and my tips is at 0.0%. I have moved the driver side screw counter clockwise a few turns, and still it is at a about 25-32 ish. Next question is I can’t seem to get rid of the hesitation after I decel going down hills, etc. When I give it a quick response throttle it hesitates, and then takes off like a bandit. I tried adjusting the more fuel ratio after decel, but it hasn’t helped? Next question? After I decel a bit and come to a stop the vehicle almost dies, drops to 400 rpm and is a bit slow to recover. Vehicle is 71 Bronco, 302, a bigger cam unknown specs. Headers, msd 6a ignition, msd distributor, advanced 10° and running afr at 14.0, seems to be the happiest there. Efi 400 with fuel command center. Any help, and tips I can get will be awesome.
    Thanks!

    1. Your throttle adjustment is off because you are turning the adjustment screw the wrong directions. To bring IAC steps down you need to turn the screw in CLOCKWISE and then key off to re-zero the TPS.

      See Decel Fuel Cut adjustments to remedy your hesitation. The EFI shuts fuel completely off on decel and your light throttle input is making the transition very noticeable with the default setting.

  8. I have decided to use a MSD #8570 distributor with no MSD box with your 300001 EFI to control the timing. Being as there is no MSD box & your EFI will be triggering the ignition coil what coil/OHMS coil do you recommend? Thanks.

    1. Any standard 12 volt coil will work. I believe most are around .08 to 1.5 ohms.

  9. Can I change out the inlet fitting to a -08 AN on the Go EFI 8 Power Adder Plus? If so what size inlet is on the unit itself? I see it has a -06 and my current lines are -08 and I don’t want to use a reducer.

    1. The inlet thread size on the throttle body is 9/16-24. This is a common carb inlet thread size so it should be easy to find.

  10. Have Meanstreet ….Handheld doesn’t have ProCal Software on it. How/Where do I get it??? Thanks

    1. Only Power Adder systems have the Pro Tuning Software.

      1. While waiting on your response, i realize it’s the Data Logging capability that isn’t working on my contoller. I followed the instructions to press toggle in while motor running and the Data Logging screen will appear….it doesn’t. Please respond. Thanks

        1. Which system do you have. Some kits come without logging capability like the Mean Street and Go Street.

  11. Will this work on 4cylinder vw turbo 2333 cc engine?

    1. I have had customers us our systems on VW engines. As far as how to hook up the coolant temp sensor you are on your own. My guess is reading head temp?

  12. Hi!
    Frequently when I start up my engine the screen in the handheld control turns white. I have to unplugs the connectors and plug then back so the display shows again. Is that normal? Do I have some kind of electrical problem al startup?

    1. If the screen on the handheld turns white or blacks out during cranking you have a low voltage issue. The RED (battery) wire needs to go directly to the positive post on the battery.

  13. how do i hook up a ford tvs cable to your throttle body? i have a AFB carb with a locar set up on it now. i need a way to hook up the tvs for the AOD trans.. thanx

    1. The linkage on the throttle body is similar to a holley carb. Any adapter for a holley should fit on the FiTech throttle bodies.

  14. Hello I’m installing a 600hp unit on my aircooled VW with roughly 295 hp am I going to have trouble programming it I’m also turbocharged any info would be greatly appreciated .

    1. We do not have information on VW setups as our systems were designed more for v8 applications. We have a ton of people doing your setup and even a dealer that only sells to the VW market. Only thing I can think of that would be special is intake runner length on VW engines are LONG and may require a good amount of Acceleration enrichment adjustments.

    2. Ron,
      RADesigns, Rodney Adams is a vw mechanic and has been tuning vw’s with these kits. He also sells vw performance parts. He has been a great help with me. I installed a PA600 blowthrough turbo kit on a 2276 and will be running it soon. look me up on facebook.
      Lewis

  15. Hey Guys, I have a 408 sbc with Dart iron heads ( sportsman 2’s ) Toqurer 2 cam 106 overlap 10:2-1 . 750 DP ,HP carb with a wilson carb spacer on a air gap intake.I also run 112 race gas , 1 gal. to 10 gal of 93 octane , plus I’m at 18 degrees advance on a MSD vacuum distributor, I have know idea what horsepower i have ,so i wanna know what to buy ? I’m looking at the mean set up , This is not a daily driver its in a 1953 F-100 ,but i do drive it a lot during the summer months, What do you think? Plus in the winter months i disconnect the battery ,will this loose all data ?and do i have to start all over in spring? Oh and i have a mechanical fuel pump that puts out a max of 7 lbs , i wanna run your command center also, Thank you ………

    1. First of all leaded fuels will kill an oxygen sensor which is required to run our system. Most racing fuels have lead additives so be aware of this.

      How much vacuum does your engine produce? 106 LSA is on the narrow side and will require additional tuning for the system to idle properly.

      If you allow the system time to save which is about 30 seconds after key off you can remove main power to the unit.

  16. Can not get my engine to idle under 1200 rpm. What do I need to do. It’s a 400hp unit on a 355 sbc with around 330 hp

    1. Can you please elaborate on this. Can you not get it to idle down? If so this is a possible vacuum leak. If it idles down but then cuts out and dies this can be an ignition system issue. Check fault codes for a possible po335 rpm noise code.

  17. hey guys i am looking at your 600hp street version with timing control. i have a 11.5.1 331 sbf afr heads in a 94 cobra edelbrock air gap performer rpm intake 280/280 .550intake .565 exhaust cam do i need timing control could i go with the 400 hp street kit car is 6 speed 3.55 gears 3100lb kevin

    1. If these cam specs are a .050″ I would recommend timing control otherwise its up to you if you want to have additional adjust-ability of your ignition timing.

  18. First thing in the morning..cold engine, Turn key on let the system prime completely then start.. it goes up on rpm as it should but then drops quickly to almost stall out. It hasn’t died completely and does recover but it still tries and struggles to idle at warm up idle speed instead of what I would think should be a bit higher until it is warm…once warmed up, it idles great.
    What can be done to help fix this issue? Thanks

    1. Be sure you have you IAC steps set correctly. Also try leaning out your target AFR at idle to a leaner setting like 14.2

  19. I have a 445 ci FE engine, and we have to pedal the car to get it started and for a few seconds after it is started just to keep it from dying. This is more prevalent when the car is ice cold. Is this normal? It is a hydraulic roller making 500 hp, warmed over Edelbrock heads, not too radical.

    1. Adjust your IAC steps and lean the engine out at idle to around 14.2 afr. If your engine pulls less than 9 inches of vacuum you may want to creep the idle afr up to around 14.7-15.0.

  20. My AIC steps will not stay where I adjust them to (after using proper adjustment/saving technic). I get them set and they will not stay the same after something like a rev or a restart. They’ll go from the suggested range to mid-teens to mid-20s. I don’t believe there are any exhaust leaks ahead of the o2 sensor and I have welded the sensor bung in place. Is there anything I should be looking for? I have the GoEFI-8 with the FCC.

    1. This is fine. We just want you to set in in an acceptable range and the EFI will then adjust as needed.

  21. hello I am having trouble trying to set the IAC it is running 140 some time it will drop to 120 I have adjusted both adjustments screws don’t help much.
    engine is a bbc 461 mild cam set on 2 any help ? my system is the 30008 meanstreet
    tom

    1. It is important to remember that you need to key off for 30 seconds after turning the screw in. If you are around 120 steps currently turn in 1.5 turns clockwise and again key off for 30 seconds after.

  22. I have the 30003 system and seem to get it to run. Try to get to start and have to open the throttle then have to open it up quite a bit and it will run. But will not stay running. try to get it to idle but it starts to dump more fuel in it and floods itself. What am I missing. This is on a 68 Corvette 383ci, HEI with charge on it. Fuel Press on the high side is 58psi and low side is 5psi., Need help

    1. Check for fault codes in the handheld. Also make sure you have no vacuum leaks and that the system is reading a proper RPM.

  23. What distributor do you recommend? If I have a carberated style distributor do I need to get an efi style? I’m looking at the 1200 power adder set up for a Windsor based setup.

    1. We predominantly use HEI distributors here. Any 12 volt ignition system will work however.

  24. I’m Having a hot start issue. is there a timer preventing it from re-starting? It will start hot as long as It sits for 5 minutes after its turned off.

    1. You need to increase the Cranking Fuel 170 setting. Try increasing it by 10.

  25. I installed your system with your fuel control center 40003 and 30002 The car starts for 2 secs and dies like someone turned the key off. checked all elec, connections they seem to be fine any ideas?. Fuel 9lbs in 60 out.

    1. The most common issue is the white wire dropping voltage during cranking. This wire needs 12 volts at key on and crank. Also check for a RPM being registered on the handhelds Dashboard during cranking.

      1. White wire is fine. Blue wire has no signal all connections are fine (both your and mine) checked with Ohm meter tack in car is working. Can this be in ECM?

        1. Is the Handheld reading a RPM during cranking? Also be sure the tach selection is set on TACH not VR-Coil.

  26. Hey Bryce, can’t seem too lose the hesitation off idle. IAC steps are set correctly (3-10) Accel @ 20 is 4, Accel@ 65 is 23 170 is 14, all on the + side. don’t have any issues on fast accel. Car runs really well other than this issue. 402 BB Chevy Comp. Cam 280 magnum .521 lift. Pertronix ign. I,m new to the EFI game & don’t know alot of those readouts on the handheld mean. Any help would be great.

    1. Is this hesitation after a deceleration? Is your vehicle a manual trans?

    2. Are you using vacuum advance on your distributor? What is your distributor base timing at? This could be just a timing issue as it seems like you have played extensively with Accel Pump.

  27. Hi. I`m in process of planning the motor to my next hotrod. This i a CSB 400 with 6/8-71 blower/ TKO 600. I already have a Fitech on my Willys pu, and planning for use the same on this engine. HP range for this motor will be 600-800, and my question is if I can use a singel or if I need a double body 1200 hp unit.

    1. You will have to use one of the following

      30012 Go EFI 8 1200hp

      30064 Go EFI Dual Quad

  28. Cold start very erratic and slow, Should I raise of lower 65f setting? Once warm idles fine.

    1. You will ultimately have to try it both ways to get started. Try increasing it by 10 one day and then -10 the next. This will give you an idea if your engine needs more or less fuel.

  29. I have a 351 Cleveland with Edelbrock RPM Airgap manifold, mild cam(2), any idea what my target RPM should be. It seems pretty happy with 900 ish. I have my IAC dialed as recommended. Anything else I need to consider?

    1. You should be able to get the idle down to 800 no problem. It really is a personal preference though.

  30. I have the go efi 4 600hp model installed on a Ford 363w with electronic ignition it has been installed for a year and worked fine and I jumped in the truck today and it won’t respond to any throttle input it just bogs out until you let off it won’t drive over an idle any help would be greatly appreciated thanks Josh

    1. Check for fault codes first and foremost. They can be found on the Main Menu option 7-8 called FAULT CODE.

  31. Can I adjust the return (throttle) spring? The pedal is way to stiff and I have backed down on my own return spring to almost none but still have to romp on it at take-off. While I don’t mind spinning the wheels, I prefer to choose when:)

    1. Grab as high as possible on the throttle linkage arm to get the most mechanical leverage.

  32. Will VP racing fuel burn out the o2 sensor?

    1. Racing fuel is usually leaded and the lead is what kills the oxygen sensor. If you use unleaded fuel it will be okay.

  33. One of your techs recommend I Google an AR chart to help me tune my go street on my 82 bronco 351w. Bone stock motor. Stock c6 auto. There a a lot of charts and opinions out there…….can you recommend one that you think is best? Thanks, Shawn

    1. There are a lot of tables out there and I understand your confusion. Here is one what shows best AFR’s under different loads.

  34. I have the 600 power adder and a Pertronix flame thrower igniter 3 distributor and would like to use the timing control . My question is do I wire it like it shows as a conventional distributor W/Timing control ? Thanks

    1. You will need a 2 wire magnetic pick up distributor to switch to timing control. The Pertronix distributor will not work. Just a key note on timing control as well. It is NOT self learning so for best results you will have to build an ignition curve in the handheld to best suit your engine. The default curve is close to a stock HEI distributor.

  35. 600hp system on a ford 302,
    at the engine setup stage when trying to enter info, handheld says no ecu response, Help?

    1. When you turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump turn on or the injectors prime? where is your white wire connected to?

  36. Can the temperature setting be change from Fahrenheit to Celsius?

    1. If you go into display setup you can set the parameter display from english to metric by pushing the joystick to the right when you highlight this setting.

  37. I have two questions for you. I have the 30002 system with aeromotive stealth phantom 340 in tank fuel pump.eng. is a Ford 347c.i. Question #1 with eng. up to temp. Tps at zero I can’t seem to get the iac adjusted to the target range! It always comes back down to zero. I make a small adjustment while eng. is running, then key off and wait up to five mins. Start it up, iac numbers come back to zero. Temp. Is fine, far is 13.6 ,idle is fine, what am I missing?Note: I have only put about 30 miles on this install.
    Question #2 the chrome cap with the nipple on the pass. Side,doe’s this get a vac. Hose?, and if so , hooked to what?
    Love this system, Thanks

    1. If the IAC keeps going to zero simply back the screw out counter clockwise until the number goes to zero. Follow the guide at this link for doing this adjustment. The Chrome Fuel pressure regulator must be connected the manifold vacuum.
      https://fitechefi.com/fitech-efi-basic-setup-instructions/

  38. When adjusting AFR. It says in .01 at a time do you mean .1 at a time ? Also I have an Issue at idle , I’m getting some kind of spike or interference in the tach signal. You can see on my tach the needle spikes up and the idle is irractic when that happens. I was trying to set the IAC steps and it just Idles irratic and tach spikes.

    1. This is RPM noise you are having. If you have a CDI box this is the most likely culprit. Be sure to keep the EFI and CDI wiring away from each other as much as possible. If the have to cross dont run them parallel to each other at any time.

  39. Hello i have the 600 hp set up. When I start the engine cold it runs so low i have to hit the petal to keep it running. What am I missing? When it hits 170temp it starts to idle up to the set idle.

    1. Set your idle using the IAC steps in the Basic setup. Once its between 3-10 you can start working on cold cranking by adjusting cranking fuel on a cold engine 20 or 65 degrees.

  40. why sometimes the TPS read 0,5 and disturb the idle?

    1. 0.5 is still in the idle circuit so idle is not disrupted.

  41. I just had the 400hp set up installed on my 1977 Jeep Wagoneer with the 403ci engine. The throttle spring is so stiff that it’s hard to regulate the gas pedal. The throttle return spring is pretty light, so that’s not the problem. Can the spring be adjusted or replaced so this thing can be driven safely on the street?

    1. The best I can suggest is get a Holley Throttle Bushing and hook the throttle cable to the top hole on the linkage. This will give you the most mechanical leverage on the throttle.

  42. What would you guys suggest would be a good after market throttle linkage set up for my Go street 400 hp application with a command center.
    I’m running a 360 AMC engine with
    Edlebrock manifold in a CJ Jeep.
    Oh and just a note the system started and running beautifully right out of the box. Only change I made was at idle. From 820
    To 700

    1. Our linkage is the same as a holley carb so any linkage setups for a holley carb should work.

  43. Will the the Go EFI 600 power adder work with my HEI distributor on my big block chevy. It has a terminal for tach and also has a mechanical tach drive.

    1. Yes a HEI distributor will work with the Go EFI 4.

  44. In case I ever need to replace the pump in the fuel command center, how does it open up and is there a special tool needed

    1. A spanner wrench is the ideal way to open the Command Center but you can always use a soft material punch and hammer the lid off. It un-threads from the top. A piece of wood or wooden dowel tend to be what people are using. The pump if available for sale and is pt# 40102.

  45. i have a sbf with the power adder 600. Gonna run 70 mm turbo around 10 lbs of boost. What style distributor would be best for my plans?

    1. Any 12 volt ignition system will work. If you are looking to use the timing control feature so you can pull timing under boost you will need a 2-wire magnetic pickup distributor that is locked out and phased.

  46. Why do you not send these instructions in the box when you sell the throttle body. It would be allot easier for everyone. Took me a week to find this set of instructions. By the way my Binderbird,,, 68 Firebird 4X4 with an international 345 loves your 400 hp. unit!

    1. We do have instructions in the boxes. It seems like there was a boxing error in your case which I am extremely sorry about. I am happy that you were able to get the system going!

  47. I am installing a 400hp unit on an inline 6 258 jeep . it wont let me change from 8 cylinder default , it started and idled ok , is it a issue to leave it on 8 cycl.setting or should I do the resetting of ecm listed at the top of page , Thanks

    1. Follow the steps below
      1. Go to MAIN MENU
      2. GO to last option (Write Cal To ECU)
      3. Select and load the Default V6 file
      4. Go through Initial Setup

  48. Bryce
    TPS is at 0.0 the IAC step I adjusted to 6 the target AFR is running at 13.4 TPS is at 0.0 My question is are there any other categories I should be looking at? This jeep is running absolutely fabulous. we do some dirt drags in the Midwest and this thing comes out of the whole hard and stays with it all The way through the hundred yards. I also have been taking it in the woods and going up some pretty steep banks no problem so far with needle in the seats in the fuel command center. Running on rough terrain, lots of bouncing around doesn’t seem to affect the injection system at all either. So far testing your system off roadRoad looks like the system works pretty darn good.

    1. That is great to here. Anything is adjustable in the system but if your engine is running well you do not need to change anything else. If anything I would lean out your idle AFR. Most people end up at around 14.2.

  49. I had the white wire on the ECU connected to the ACC post on my fuse box in the car, the ECU did not run correctly. I changed the white wire connection to the IGN post on the fuse box and the system runs perfectly…but it will not shut the engine off when I turn the key to the OFF position or unhook the battery. Do I have the white wire hook up incorrectly? Also, when the car is driving, the dashboard only shows 12.3 V, is this normal or does it mean my alternator is bad? The battery is showing about 13.4 volts at IDLE.

    1. The white wire needs 12 volts at key on and cranking. When the key is off it should have 0 Volts. It seems that you have the wire hooked to 12 volts constant right now.

  50. Hi i have the 600hp system in my truck, it idles like a dream and accelarates great in low gears but when under load 40% or higher throttle in higher gears under 3000 rpm A/F ratio falls to 10.4 becomes sluggish and backfires through the exhaust until rpm rises close to 3k where the afr slowly rises to its target and the truck comes alive again. I have run it like this for a few hours during last days and it does not seem to improve. Do I need to keep driving and let it learn or is there something in the settings i can change to fix this?

    1. Check for Fault Codes. They can be found on the MAIN MENU under FAULT CODES. If there is a code it could be P0335 which is for RPM noise from the ignition system. You would need to go through your ignition and check for loose or worn components. It also could be from EMI in the ignition which CDI boxes are notorious for.

      If no codes are found then an accel pump adjustment will need to be made.

      If the system is having a hesitation or bogging issue, and you IAC steps are between 3-10 at warm idle, then your next step would be to adjust the accel pump function to increase or decrease the fuel added on acceleration. To start with turn the key to the on position and then find Go EFI Tuning on the main menu and press enter. Then find Accel pump and press enter. You will see a menu with multiple different settings, you need to focus on the Accel pumps (20f, 65f, 170f) and Fast Accel (20f, 65f, 170f). These setting adjust how much fuel, at varying temperatures, the system injects when you accelerate. Accel pump is used for any normal throttle input, Fast Accel is for any fast throttle inputs or Wide Open Throttle.

      Hesitation: If the vehicle has a hesitation (when you step on the throttle and the engine does hangs and/ or almost dies and then suddenly take off) this normally is a lack of fuel so you would fix this by increasing the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue to reside in.

      Bogging/engine loads up/slow to respond: If the vehicle is bogging (when you step on the throttle and the engine is slower/sluggish to come up to a higher rpm) this is normally caused by over fueling. To fix this you would need to reduce the amount of fuel it is injecting as an accel pump shot. To do this this decrease the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue to reside in.

  51. I have a caspers electronics tps breakout part # 108103 to hook up to the tps sensor on the fitech 600 power adder the wires are blue gray and black the same as on the fitech what colors are for power signal and ground

    1. You only need to use the signal wire which is the BLUE wire.

  52. My go street system has been working well since I installed about a month ago. Although Over the past two days I have experience problems with just driving down the road and the command center runs out of fuel. When I get out and open the hood and try to restart the vehicle there is no high side pressure whatsoever. I have to re-prime the command center with fuel and then it will fire up again. There are other websites that talk about the command center having issues with a check ball valve in there venting system. Bryte or Cody can you help me out I don’t trust the system to drive it anywhere without having problems that I’m experiencing.
    Thanks
    Chad

    1. Your issue is from one of two things.

      1. The mechanical fuel pump is not feeding fuel into the command center quick enough to run you engine.

      2. The vent line on the command center has a restriction in it causing the system to pressurize. If the command center builds pressure inside it can stop fuel from coming into it.

  53. I have a HEI system I’m getting code po 335 there’s nothing wrong with the distributor how can I fix this code and get the car to run.

    1. This code shows that there is an issue with the RPM signal being given to the EFI. You have to look from the blue wire out toward the ignition system. Without a proper reading the you engine will not run well as the EFI will fuel based on the RPM (which is wrong) causing over fueling. The only time I have seen this not be the ignition system is when an alternator wire is run parallel with the main harness of the EFI.

  54. Will the ecu control fuel pressure?

    1. The fuel injection system does not digitally control fuel pressure. There is a fuel pressure regulator on the throttle body that will maintain the fuel pressure with a return line back to the gas tank.

  55. i have a 30001 fitech kit and want to make it a returnless setup. i plan on using the frame mounted inline kit that was also purchased. Other than capping off the return port is there anything else i have to purchase or install to make sure the system is properly set up? Car is a 1964 Ford Galaxie country wagon with a 390ci in it.

    1. You need to install a return back to your tank. There is no way around it as the regulator returns un-used fuel to maintain fuel pressure.

  56. My IAC had been in the 130s when cruising and when coming to a stop at a light. Now its fluctuating all over the place and when coming to a stop sometimes drops to 0 and then gradually starts to climb up again. Any ideas as to why? Thank you.

    jay

    1. This is normal. The system moves the IAC anticipating future RPM changes. The only time this number matters is at an idle in park or neutral.

  57. Can you adjust with the hand held controller, an AFR leaner than 14.7:1. For a lean cruise mode?

    1. Yes you can adjust the AFR to whatever you want. The selection is in GO EFI TUNING and it is called AFR TARGETS.

  58. Hi Bryce
    I have a 1200 hp twin throttle body 8 efi power adder, I have it mounted on a quad turbo charged V12 5.3 Jag engine, I have changed the lucas distributor internals to a Pertronix LU-1122A two wire electronic ignition , I have locked the distributor but still used the vacuum advance. When I turned on the ignition to go to the main menu section 4 Go-efi. Inital setup, I can’t change the cylinders from 8 to V12, It also won’t let me change from TACH to 2Wire+Coil. What do I do to change the settings. Regards, Ray.

    1. Two things on this one. First off the system can not be changed to more cylinders than 8. Second the distributor you have will not control timing.

      If you have installed the system already this is what I recommend to do. To Run the engine with this system you need to use a ready to run style ignition as the EFI cant control your engine. Then just try to run it on 8 cylinder selection. Your RPM will be wrong but the system should be able to fuel for it regardless.

      Let us know how this goes as we have never had someone put our kit on a V12 before.

      1. Hi Bryce, thanks for your reply, Disappointing that the Pertronix magnetic two wire electronic ignition system is not suitable for your EFI System. as I purchased it on the pretence that it would, I cant buy a ready to run system (that I am aware of ) for the V12 Jag engine that is a two wire magnetic system. The Jag Lucas system was a 3 wire magnetic so I changed it to the Pertronix two wire. I needed your system as I am running a Quad turbo charged setup on it and was going to add NOS as well and needed to control the timing. From your literature it said that it would be suitable for any engine just select the number of cylinders.
        After the discussion on the phone last Saturday week with your Tech people, they said it would not Work on a V12 because of the rev range and it would not feed the correct amount of fuel, I have since removed it and have bought two blowthrough Carby’s.
        If you ever get a EFI program setup to be able to run on the V12 and that you know of a suitable two wire system that will work on a 5.3 Jag engine that is also compatible to your EFI system please let me know. This is set up in a 1927 RoadsterHot Rod.

  59. I have a big block 496 Chevy and just ordered the 1200 HP kit. I have a carb on the car now with an a1000 inline pump. Will this work to feed the throttle body? And if so can I just hook it up to the kit or do I need another pressure regulator?

    1. With an Aeromotive A1000 you will need an external bypass regulator instead of the throttle bodies regulator. This is because the pump will flow more than the built in regulator can handle.

  60. I’m still in the setup of my system having only had the car running a few times but I’m having a problem starting the car after bringing it up to temperature. If I let it sit for a while and come back it will start

    1. Follow the CRANKING FUEL ADJUSTMENTS on the BASIC SETUP.

      Other possibilities are loss of RPM from your ignition or No fuel pressure.

  61. My TPS reading on the handheld does not go to 100%. It usually peaks at 89.8%. Is this a problem? How can I fix it?

    1. This is not a problem, the system looks at throttle change not throttle position to determine fueling.

  62. Ideal low side pressure to the Fuel Command Center should be 4-8 PSI.

  63. I’m thinking about put in your system on a 2000 5.3 out of a truck with cathedral heads . It’s going in a 1965 el camino will the system work with this engine . Thank you Rick Lance

    1. Both our Ultimate LS or the GO EFI Throttle body systems will work on your engine.

  64. Hello,
    I have 4 vacuum lines coming off of my 350sbc and th350 trans. There is brake boost, pvc, distributor advance, and one coming off the transmission. In figure 4 page 4 the instructions state there is a 3/16 nipple for the transmission modulator. However the efi came with a hose attached to that vacuum nipple running to the other side of the efi, i think thats the built in fuel regulator it is running to? is that correct?. Where do I hook my transmission vacuum line in at. Do I tee off the existing hose on the EFI? Please advise, i am in the middle of the install.

    Thanks,

    1. The vacuum line that is installed on your unit is an UPDATE that we are now using. You can Tee into this line for your transmission modulator.

  65. Hi I have a 454 big block with a manual 6 speed trans, my question is when I am driving and I am in lets say 3 gear and come to slow down to turn without downshifting the car turns off, so what is causing the vehicle to turn off at this time?

    1. Under GO EFI TUNING there is a section called FUEL CUT CONTROL. You will need to mess with the number in here. Try the following.

      Decel Cut MAP = 18
      Decel Return MAP = 20

  66. I just put your system on a 78 Ford F150 with a 400 and C6 automatic. Do you supply an adapter for the C6 kick down rod? I tried using the one I took off the old eldelbroc but the angle is wrong and the rod won’t reach.

    1. Get an adapter for a holley carb as the thottle bodies linkage is the same as that carb.

  67. Will the basic kit (no trans controller) require a VSS signal to run correctly?

    1. The NON Trans control systems do NOT need a VSS signal.

  68. I have installed the FiTech 30003 unit on my 1981 Pontiac Trans Am. The car has a 301 Turbo 4.9ltr engine (worst Pontiac motor ever but i’m trying to make it work). I put an in line fuel pump on it and when I went to start it I primed the lines, the unit gives a squirt of fuel to start with and the car turns over and fires immediately then dies. It’s as if the fuel doesn’t pump after the initial squirt….. any help would be greatly appreciated as I know bugger all about motors and probably shouldn’t be even doing this……

    1. Check the white wire for 12 volts during cranking. This is the most common no start issue. You can also look at the handheld under dashboard. The first item in there is RPM and if you crank the engine over you should show a RPM. If the screen goes off it is low cranking voltage to the red wire and if the RPM does not move from zero its either the white wire loosing power or the blue wire not receiving a tach input signal from your ignition.

  69. I have the fitech model 3002 on a small block ford , no matter how many times I try to set the Inc steps, it still will only read zero. What am I doing wrong? Also are you now using a vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator? Thank you. M. Mosley

    1. With the engine at operating temp and idling look at IAC steps. If the are zero just back off (counter clockwise) the throttle adjustment screw until the steps come up between 3-10. If you back off the screw all the way and the engine is still idling fast you have a vacuum leak.

  70. I have the GO EFI 400hp and Fuel Command center on a 350sbc. I have adjusted my IAC to 6/7 on warm idle. I seem to be flooding on cold starts having to hold the gas down before it will start. Also when you shut off the engine it will chug and turn over a few times. Any suggestions??

    1. check fault codes. Most likely there is something causing this like the o2 sensor. You can also watch the AFR in dashboard to see how rich or lean the engine is running.

  71. The system is installed in a 3.5 liter land rover. When I slow down and unload the Motor by pushing in the clutch the engine stalls. This happens hot or cold, AC on and off. Thanks John

    1. Follow the IAC step adjustment on this page and get the IAC setting as close to 0 as possible with the engine not idling high.

  72. I have installed the fitech 30002 on a 383 stroker. It starts up and runs. I adjusted the iac . My problem is that it idles fine when you first crank it. After it warms up, at idle, the engine shakes. It seems like the longer you let it idle, the worse it gets. Revv it up and it smooths out. Back to idle, it shakes. Does not try to die, but shakes. Increased idle up to 1000, but still not smooth. When I had the engine on a test stand running a carb I don’ t remember it having any problems at idle.

    1. Check for fault code and you may also try a different idle AFR target. Try leaning it out to around 14.2.

  73. I’m running the 400hp with with the FCC on an Olds 350. Elsewhere, I have read conflicting advice about which FPR should have vacuum hooked up. In my case, should it be the EFI, or the FCC?

    1. Per the instructions you hook up both.

  74. Bryce
    I’m trying to adjust my idle return and go to a negative number. ( my engine doesn’t come back to idle quick enough) My problem is I can’t seem to get to the negative number, it won’t let me go negative. I’m following your directions but I. I must be doing something wrong
    Oh and by the way this site that I’m on really is helpful reading through all the questions people have many have helped me without me even turning to you guys for help all the time. Also the fuel new manual fuel pump is keeping the command center running as well. Thanks for that advice as well.
    Appreciate your help

    1. To lower the values in the handheld you can hit EDIT and select the – (minus) sign and then the number you want or you can just click left or right on the joystick to increase or decrease the value.

  75. When I start my engine the screen on the hand held turns white and I have to hold the button down to power it back up. I have my positive wire hooked to the post on my alternator and the switched positive hooked to the positive on my HEI distributor. Just wondering if I’m might be getting power fluctuations during cranking?

    1. You NEED the red BATTERY wire hooked directly to the battery.

      1. Thanks!! I hooked the wire directly to the battery and fixed the problem. I have the 400hp system with command center in my 78 Corvette and I must say it has EXCEEDED my expectation!!! I set the IAC steps and it works great when cold, hot, or anywhere in between!! I did a youtube video on how easy it was to install and posted it on the Corvette forum. Thanks for making such a great, easy to install system!!!

  76. Idle Return topic- the engine is warmed up and the engine is stalled say off roading or key turn off , when the engine starts, it starts at too high of an RPM. Can the settings be adjusted to have the engine start almost at idle? like a carb?

    1. The EFI is making the engine start with a fast idle on purpose. If you want to change this you need to adjust CRANKING IAC. If you adjust this setting too far you will cause starting issues.

  77. i have a mean street 800hp setup and on the initial setup menu on 06 setting it doesnt have tach or 2wire+coil option, instead it has pump pwm/fcc=40. is there a setting im missing? or might it be cause im not using the power wire from the fitech to run my fuel pump?

    1. The tach input is for systems with timing control. The MEAN ST. doesn’t have timing control so there is no need for that setting. If you have a FUEL COMMAND CENTER you need to set Pump PWM to 40.

  78. I am getting popping on decel from cruise or hard accel. How can I minimize this? 521 cu. in with Cam =3

    1. Under decel the system shuts fuel off. This is what is causing your popping in the exhaust. If you check the FUEL CUT CONTROL so that the setting of DECEL CUT MAP says 5 it will make the system never cut fuel off completely under decel.

      1. Will I need to adjust DFCO fuel return since I won’t be going as lean?

        1. This setting changes the amount of fuel that is injected when the system comes back into fueling from a decel. If you turned decel off this value no longer works.

  79. I installed Fitch on my. 1968 mustang won’t start unless I used a battery charger I have msd ignition

    1. It sounds like a cranking voltage issue. Check the red wire for 12+ volts and it should be going directly to the battery positive post. Also check your engine grounds.

  80. what is idle pid

    1. The Idle PID in the dashboard is really not needed for a reference in tuning. We do use it sometimes for advanced diagnosis but below is what PID means and it applies to IAC (Idle Air Control) Steps.

      A proportional–integral–derivative controller (PID controller) is a control loop feedback mechanism. A PID controller continuously calculates an error value {\displaystyle e(t)} e(t) as the difference between a desired setpoint and a measured process variable and applies a correction based on proportional, integral, and derivative terms.

  81. hello. Is EFI sensitive to cam lobe separation? 108 vs. 114 ? it’s a street / strip cam I’m looking for. thank you.

    1. Cam Lobe separation has a direct affect to vacuum. EFI reads vacuum as a meter for load. So Yes a wider separation is better for fuel injection. There is a really good article from Hotrod Magazine on this from about a month ago.

  82. I put an fitech kit on 5.3l ls motor it works fine when the engine is cold it will burn the tires off when it gets hot it won’t get out of its own way it stalls it bogs it won’t pull up a hill

    1. Check for fault codes in the EFI as well as put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line to see if your issue is pressure related.

  83. I have a code of rpm noise. I have a mopar 440 big block with fuel command center. Everything seems to work ok it is running a little rough now. I have the blue wire hooked to the neg side of the coil and the white wire to the ballast resistor. Any help is appreciated.

    1. Fuel injection will not work with ballast resisted ignition system. You will need to update your ignition to a 12 volt system.

  84. Hi I have your 1200 hp on a big block Chevy and It has a surge and runs real rough when you put it in gear and driving it at any rpm I check for vacuum leaks there is none my Afrs are at the target where they should be checked my plugwires all my electrical connections can’t figure it out can’t hope uguys can help me with what’s going on thanks

    1. Check for fault codes. Surging idles is always caused by one of two things. Vacuum leaks and RPM noise. The fault code section is on the MAIN MENU is option 7 or 8.

  85. In the dashboard is a value for engine vacuum. It reads a -7 with a value indicated as PSI. Is this the same as a 7 inch vacuum reading? I set the initial parameters as a 2 in cam specs, should I reset this to a 3 and is it necessary to reinitialize the system or simply allow it to learn?

    1. Yes the -7 means inches of vacuum, furthermore if your reading that low of vacuum at idle you need to have the cam selection on 4.

  86. If I wack the throttle with the car in park it will cut off after I let the throttle go…I did the IAC Steps and at warm idle it bounces back and forth from 0 to 4, is this correct? For cold and warm start up issues do I add fuel to start up? How do I lower the amount of rpm ramp up after start up? Thanks

    1. Yes you can add and or take away fuel from the “Crank Fuel” under “crank and warm up” which is found in “go efi tuning”

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