Posted on

OPTION Coil Drive

These are the primary things to adjust to set up the ignition control system.

Distrib Base deg = Adjust this so that the displayed timing matches the actual timing seen on a timing light at low RPM, such as idle, or adjust the distributor so that the timing light matches the display. It’s important to keep this about 10-25 degrees. At cranking, the spark will happen at this value. The system also cannot advance very many degrees above this value – approximately only 20 degrees advance above this value is available at high RPM.
Tach or 2Wire+Coil = If the RPM signal input is using a 2 wire distributor to control the ignition advance with the FiTech ECU, set this to “VRCoil”. The system MUST BE TURNED OFF AFTER MAKING THIS CHANGE – special settings are set up at the software initialization, and it will not work without this complete power off to power on cycle. If just using the coil negative from a single fire distributor (non-CDI) or tachometer signal from a distributor or CDI box, set this to “Tach.”
VR Advance 4000 = A VR signal, the filtering hardware, and cam chain stretch can lead to some amount of retarding at high RPM. This error can be corrected here, so that the timing light at low RPM matches the displayed value for spark advance, and the spark advance at high RPM, specifically at 4000 RPM matches the timing light.

40 comments on “OPTION Coil Drive

  1. My truck will start then immediately die. I have no RPM signal. If I disconnect power for a few minutes then it will usually start and run for a while before dying. The wiring is correct. What can I do to fix this.

    1. What type of ignition system do you have? Intermittent RPM signals tend to show up when there is a loose connection on the wire.

  2. Can the system be setup to pull a desired amount of timing out per pound of boost in a turbocharged application?

    1. The GO EFI Poweradder EFI systems have the ability to pull timing under boost when timing control is being used.

      1. U sate timing can be pulled based off of the per pound of boost being applied. What do I have to do to make that adjustment

        1. The adjustment is in SPARK MAP. This is where you build your ignition curve. The values are at the bottom of this window. You just need to put the number of degrees you want the engine to be under boost.

  3. what do i set the hand controller at when the timing is locked out at 36 deg. ?

    1. Timing control is designed to be a digital version of a distributor with mechanical and vacuum advance. If you have your distributor locked out at 36 degrees and you want to leave it this way just use the tach selection and the blue wire on the FiTech system. If you want to utilize timing control which needs to be adjusted or CURVED to your engine you need to follow the timing control instructions.

  4. Will the Throttle body unit and linkage fit inside of a Paxton/Vortech supercharger air box?

    1. The linkage should fit but what about the wiring? We have never tried this.

  5. I have a 1980 buick Rivera even fire v6. The engine was running good but now i have no tach signal and it won’t start i have a (DUI) distributor i do not have the timing control conected because it has a hei coil i check the wiring and replaceed the coil still no tach something is telling me there is something wrong with the unit

    1. Check the fault codes of the system. If it has a PO335 code for RPM noise you need to look more into that distributor. I know that DUI requires the use of a 12 gauge power wire to feed their distributor. When there is too much resistance in this wire it can cause electrical noise inside the distributor.

  6. hi fitech won’t run on vr+coil ..when gutted locked out hei dizzy pick up is wired to msd 6al and blue wire is hooked up and set to tach setting engine runs fine.. when the 2 pick up wires are connected to fitech and black wire is hooked up to white wire on msd 6al and setting is set to vr+coil and key cycled .. engine won’t run .(has run twice tho) comes up with p0335 rpm noise ..connection replaced still no start can see cranking 172rpm tho

    1. When using timing control we recommend a 2-wire mag pickup distributor such as a MSD Pro Billet.

  7. Hi I´m brazilian, sorry by my english.

    Well I have installed a 400HP street EFI injection, i do all the instalation e configuration. The car runs sometimes and then never start again. Seeing in the fault codes, see the “noise RPM”. I´m staing crazy with this, in the first time the car run normally, but suddenly never start again.
    I use a distribuitor with coil, is a 292 V8.
    I will do a test chance de distribuitor and coil, but before I need some instructions.

    Thanks a lot

    1. The EFI needs to be ran with a 12 volt ignition. If your coil received less than 12 volts like in a ballast resisted ignition the system will throw the RPM Noise.

      1. My understanding was that the FiTech is compatible with a points distributor. The coil must have a resistor or it will fail. If the FiTech can’t get an RPM reading reliably with a resistor, how is it compatible with a points distributor?

        I too am struggling with RPM noise problems making the FiTech get erratic RPM readings. It is hit and miss. At times it runs great, then a few minutes later it will barely run.

        Can you suggest a coil that I can run without the resistor and make the FiTech happy?

        1. A stock points distributor will NOT work reliably and will produce RPM noise. You will need to at least upgrade the distributor with a digital module like one from Pertronix. You other option is to get a newer digital ignition system like a HEI or ready to run distributor.

  8. I am looking into your Go Street efi for an early bronco for off road use, My question is, will it work with a DUI hei distributor? No timing control needed. Second question is, I have dual fuel tanks and would like to be able to use them, would you recommend an external pump to each tank with six way fuel valve, meaning supply and return will be available to each tank or your fuel command system, I am a little worried about off camber and steep up and down hill angles. Thank you.

    1. HEI distributors work with our EFI systems great. We use a lot of the here.

      Off camber situations are a concern with the Fuel Command Center as it does have a float inside of it. Your best option would be in tank pumps and a switching valve for the return to direct fuel to the correct tank.

  9. Hello, I have a small block chevy and running a Mallory duel point distributor. Will the Fitech EFI work on this motor? Or will it have to have a HEI distributor?
    Thanks

    1. You will need a 12 volt ignition system for the EFI to work properly. If I am correct this system uses a ballast resistor which takes down the voltage.

  10. VR Advance 4000: I understand its to correct for timing chain stretch, but lets say the timing chain doesn’t stretch much, would the value be zero?

    If I have the VR Advance set to 14, the distributor base timing set at 14, WOT 3000 95kPA and WOT 6000 timing set at 36, does the timing control go to 50 degrees advance at 4000 RPMs at WOT?

    That would be in excess of the 20 degree window (14 base timing + 20 advance = 34 degrees total advance maximum).

    1. The VR Advance is a sync feature that allows for the adjustment of input delay. This is used when your check your advancement at 4000 RPM. If the system is commanding 36 degrees advance and your timing light shows you 34 degrees you would us VR Advance to sync the timing.

  11. Hello I’m looking into purchasing one of your units I will using it in a 53 chevy pickup with the entire running gear out of a 94 chevy astro van 4.3 engine has the electronic distributor were the timing is controlled by the ecu the base timing is 0 degrees btdc with 10 degrees timing at idle would I set the controller to VR Advance or would this system work for me at all thank you in advance

    1. If the distributor you are talking about is the factory GM computer control distributor then the FiTech timing control will not work with it. You will need a 2-wire magnetic pickup distributor. We are after the mag pickup only.

  12. I’m running the FITECH unit controlling timing on my 440. I have a msd pro billet distributor locked out and initial Timing set to 8° advanced. I did the sinc. On the distributor and it runs but not sure what to set the spark map settings at. Any information would be great. Looking for the settings for: idle advance, 1100 45kPa, 3000 45kPa, 6000 45kPa, wot 1100 95kPa, wot 3000 95kPa, and wot 6000 95kPa.

    1. The easiest way I can can explain this is that the 45 kPa parameters are vacuum advance abd tge wot 95 kPa are mechanical advance.

      The default in the EFI system is close to a stock HEI ignition curve.

  13. Having a big hesitation issue, when I put the throttle all the way down under load the engine bogs, and almost dies or does die out. 440 Mopar running timing control/ distributor locked out 8° advanced initial timing. Any help would be great.

    1. If you think this is due to timing you would have to look at your 1100 rpm 45 kPa timing and alter it.

      My personal opinion is it will be fuel related. Be sure that you have good fuel pressure (58psi) when rapping the throttle. If you do then you need to adjust your Fast Accel Adjustment in the Accel Pump section of Go EFI Tuning.

  14. I have the 600 power adder. I have a ready to run distributor and I’m not using timing control. I have the blue wire connected to negative side of the coil and the white wire connected to the positive side of the coil. I can’t change the ignition setup in the handheld from vr coil to tach. My car starts for just a second and dies.

    1. The button to the right of the handheld screen is a joystick. Click left or right on the parameter you are trying to change.

  15. I’m getting an erratic tach reading with my HEI. Rpm fluctuates several hundred rpm at a steady cruise. Seems to get worse at higher rpm. I installed a new Accell HEI and it made no change.

    1. This is RPM noise and I am sure it is throwing a code in the handheld. This is common on high output HEI distributors when the main feed wire is not large enough. Be sure you follow the specs of the HEI manufacturer with the main power wire gauge.

  16. What coil is recommended when using timing control? I have already removed the resistor wire, but when looking at aftermarket coils I see different internal resistances.

    1. You can use coils ranging from 0.8 to 1.5 ohms. Basically all major aftermarket coils.

  17. P0335 code, last week when I timed my small block Chevy 350 equipped with an hei small cap billet distributer, seemed to run fine. After a shakedown run it stumbles all over itself bottom and mid range. Today it will prime the fuel system (aeromotive stealth 340 in fuel cell) and the handheld shows ecm cutting power to the pump. Is rpm noise capable of this or is my problem elsewhere? Handheld shows 62psi at prime. Thanks a lot

    1. RPM noise can cause all kinds of running issues. Have you confirmed that you have a code in the fault code section?

  18. Yes I do have a tach noise code, I believe it is P0335 from memory but I have looked it up. I do have an hei harness on the way from American Autowire in hopes that my coil is seeing too much resistance causing rpm noise in the distributor. I plan on clearing the trouble codes and trying to restart the engine. My question is, can two consecutive tach noise codes cause the ecm to lock out fuel pump operation? As of right now it only primes

    1. Without a RPM signal the EFI will not continue to run the fuel pump.