I am using a 30002. I purchased a MSD 85501 Magnetic Trigger-Locked Advance, installed it. Connected black wire to neg connection on coil. When I first installed the system it worked great but I wanted to take advantage of the timing control. I now have no spark. Would it be the ECU? I am baffled.. The coil tests good.. Can I test the FiTeck ECU timing control?
Check your wiring to diagram 13 on the instructions. If you are hooked up correct the next step is to change the 2wire VR+coil in engine setup to VR Coil. After setting to VR coil you need to key off for 30 seconds.
If you are still having issues please give us a phone call at 951-340-2624.
Can a distributor that has been converted to Pertronix Ignitor 3 be controlled by a GO 600 EFI? I want to buy this system for my 1964 lincoln continental. It has a 430 MEL V8. I have not found any aftermarket distributors for that motor.
You will need a 2-wire magnetic pickup distributor such as a MSD Pro Billet or equivalent. Your Ignitor 3 will not work.
hi will the new msd e curve distributor work with this feature to control nitrous ,timing retard
This distributor will NOT work with timing control. You will need a 2-wire magnetic pickup distributor like a MSD Pro Billet.
I just installed the 30001 with a locked out MSD distributor, MSD Blaster 2 coil, no MSD box. I went through the setup screen. it cranks but will not start, I am getting a code P0335 “RPM NOISE”, can you advise please? Thanks
RPM noise is isolated to the ignition system. You need to check your distributor, coil, spark plug wires, and wiring of the ignition system. Common issues would be arcing spark plug wires or low voltage to the coil.
I’m running the timing control option with a locked-out distributor & MSD 6AL. Can’t get it to fire. It’s getting fuel. Distributor ran great with carburetor, but tested pick-up after locking it out just to be sure. MSD tests good if I trigger white-wire to ground. Can’t get spark to trigger if I jump the 2-wire cable to the throttle-body. RPM shows good on “dashboard” during cranking. Just can’t get her to start up.
Double check that your tach input selection on engine setup is set to VR-coil. Also be sure that you have the distributor base timing setting lower that idle timing as this can make a no spark issue.
Feel free to call us for assistance on your setup. 951-340-2624
i did something wrong it wont let me edit the 2 wire coil or tach it is in 2wire and wont start and no tach signal on cranking
Use the joystick on the handheld (button to right or screen) and click is left or right when you have the tach or 2-wire field highlighted.
Is it okay to use a ballast resistor coil when using the timing control on the Fitech?
I asked earlier in November if you can use a ballast resistor coil with the timing control, but did not receive an answer.
You cannot use a ballast resistor coil for timing control, it must be a standard non-ballast coil.
Any issues with driving the FiTech and a tach off of the MSD-6AL tach signal at the same time. I want to just tee off the MSD to both. Tach is an Auto Meter 5″ with shift light. It’s currently hooked up to the MSD and working fine. thanks!
Yes. You can run both the FiTech tach input and the Auto Meter tach in at the same time.
For anyone wondering, an MSD Flying Magnet crank trigger will run the timing control, but you’ll need to shorten the air gap down to .030 or so, and reverse the pickup wires, I.E.: purple to green, and green to purple. Figured this out today. With the wires not reversed, the handheld will show cranking rpm at 150, and will not send a signal to fire a coil or cdi box. Hopefully this’ll save somebody else some trouble, hah.
Could you please advise me on what distributor to use for the timing control feature, I have a 1972 Trans am 455 and have purchased a supercharger and your 1200hp power adder. Also does the Fitech work the same as a vacuum advance distributor under light cruise conditions? Thanks Jay
Timing control allows you to build your own ignition curve in the EFI. It can be adjusted based on RPM and vacuum.
You will need to get a 2-wire magnetic pickup distributor to use timing control.
Can i use a pertronix ignitor 3 if not using the ignition control option? It is a 2 wire
It has 2-wires but they go to the coil direct. The pertronix 3 is a complete module that will not work with timing control. We are after the magnetic pickup only from the distributor.
Will this system work with the Ford TFI ignition?
Our system works with a magnetic pickup 2-wire distributor. It will NOT work with a Ford TFI.
I have the 30002 and 40003 Fuel Command. I am getting a P0335 code for RPM signal. I am using an older Mallory Unilite distributor with their coil. It is running the ballast resistor. I have the blue wire connected to the negative side of the coil. It will fire, but quit running immediately. Does this type of ignition system need to be changed?
The ballast resistor is the issue. You will need to get an ignition that supplies 12 volts to the coil. You may try a tach adpater before this but we have not tested with one.
If I use a MSD #8577 distributor in my 460 Ford, I can run your timing control instead of a ignition box?
This distributor will work. You will also need pt# 84211. It can be ran with or without a cdi box. Look at our instructions for diagrams on the wiring setup
I had every thing hooked up and running decently on my pontiac 400 with msd pro billet and digital 6 using the 600hp adder and c.c. I wanted to take advantage of the timing control with the fitech controller. I have locked out my distributor, just ordered a msd adjustable rotor. It shows I can run the ignition with or without the msd digital 6 box. What is the pro’s and con’s of keeping the cdi box. Does it really need to stay installed?
The EFI system can fire a coil directly or fire a CDI box so you have the option of running your setup either way. If you fire a coil directly you are limited to the output of the coil while using a CDI box adds output and features to your ignition system.
I have a stock HEI Distributor will this work with the timing control
Timing control will not work with a HEI. You will need a 2-wire magnetic pickup distributor that is locked out and phazed.
Will a locked out stock distributor with a Pertronix Ignitor (1) be compatible with timing control?
A Pertronix Ignitor is a a complete ignition module and will NOT work with timing control.
I have an HEI distributor and MSD 6al. I just ordered the 30008 and fuel command. I’m confused looking at the directions. It looks like you can’t use the timing control feature with an HEI but the green and violet wires for the MSD have a note that says only for timing control. Can I use timing control with the HEI and MSD? If not do I still use the green and violet wires?
It is not a plug a play setup so we suggest not trying timing control with that distributor. All you need to do it use the tach lead (blue wire) and hook it to the tach out lead of your CDI box.
I purchased 30002 system and have hooked it up to a jacobs ignition offroad system. everthing was working with a carb before this set up. i have hooked up the EFI sytem like figure 11 without timing control. blue wire hooked up to external tach output of the jacobs box. The engine cranks but doesnt start. it doesnt even try to light off. Any suggestions
Every time you key on the fuel pump should prime for 4 seconds and a prime shot of fuel should shoot into the intake. If you are not getting this there is an issue with power to the EFI. Also if the handheld black/whites out during cranking it is the same red wire power. Other no start issues are loss of power during cranking to the white wire as well as the throttle blades are not adjusted properly. The throttle adjustment pertains to IAC steps.
i have a 1970 pontiac 400 engine and want to run timing control. What distributor should i purchase
MSD pro-billet magnetic two wire distributor (or equivalent) and MSD # 84211 phasing rotor.
using just a stock mopar performance 2 wire distributor with the magnetic pickup. locked out distributor with lockout plate. where in the directions does it say to set the distributor at degrees wise at idle?? everything seems to come together besides that. set it at tdc on the compression stroke?? like a carb
That distributor cannot be used for timing control as it does not have the ability to use an MSD 84211 Phasing rotor. Did you try to install this distributor for use with timing control already?
another guy named Bryce I think gave a different answer. what distributor do you suggest then? for the timing control.
Timing control was designed to work with a 2-wire magnetic pickup distributor such as a MSD pro billet or equivalent. Any distributor outside of this 2-wire type distributor may work but we don’t condone the use of due to custom modification.
no directions about a ballast resistor. remove the ballast resistor so the coil gets 12 volts??
If your ignition has a ballast resistor it will not work with timing control. You need a 2-wire distributor such a MSD Pro Billet or equivalent.
talked to msd and they said using one of there high impedance ignition coils you can eliminate the ballast resistor. the ballast only keeps the stock coils from burning up prematurely. so in “theory” I don’t have a ballast resistor. why wont it work with a ballast resistor? just curious the reason behind it..
The EFI system reads RPM based on 12 volts. The ballast resistor knocks voltage down to around 9 volts.
Why don’t you guys sell a 800hp kit with power adder? If i have a 255 pump in my tank already will it work for the 600hp kit with 3/8 feed line 5/16 return line, also it says it needs vaccume to tune it’s self but generally on a turbo application you don’t use vaccume because it’s a major loss of boost? Couple questions before I order my kit this week! Thanks
There is no point for us to make a power adder 800 since we have the 1200 power adder, all engines create vacuum at idle, even boosted engines. The system needs at least 5-6 inches of vacuum at idle for it to function properly.
Hello, what do you mean with 2-Wire distributor? Must it be hall effekted or inductive?
We mean a MSD pro-billet (or equivalent), NON-ready to run, magnetic pickup, distributor, and of course an MSD #84211 Phasing rotor.
I currently am not using ignition control so is the spark advance shown on the handheld unit invalid ? The spark changes while driving but what is it telling me ?
This value shows what the system would be doing if timing control is hooked up.
I have purchased a 600hp power adder system. I am running a Pontiac 455. My current distributor is a Mallory Utility with ballast resistor and coil. Will this work with your set up? Thanks in advance
Your ignition will not work with timing control and unfortunately it wont work in the conventional setup either. You need a 2-wire magnetic pickup distributor that is locked out and phased for timing control or a digital 12 volt ignition for the conventional tach setup.
The car is dieseling when key is turned off. Idle is good TPS & IAC is good. Base 10*, Idle 15*. Is it ignition or fuel related issue?
What is your target AFR at an idle? If its rich this will cause dieseling. Otherwise check for back feeding power to the white wire on the harness.
The target AFR is 14.
If the system is running at 14.0 right before you key off be sure to check for back feeding electrical noise to the white wire.
Where do you best connect the white cable?
To the key switch in the ignition position.
will the Summit Racing® Billet Distributors SUM-850050 work for ignition control
If this distributor can be locked out and phased you will be able to use it.
I have a 1972 Ford 302 with a ford dura spark ignition. Will this ignition system work with the your EFI?
The system will work with digital 12 volt ignition. If your ignition has a ballast resistor it will NOT work.
I have the Go EFI 8 1200 hp power adder system. I cannot get the timing control feature to work. I have all new ignition components, ( less than 500mi). I have tried many variations of distributor installation and still no spark. I have removed and reinstalled all wiring. Running a pro billet MSD distributor with adjustable rotor and MSD 6AL box. I had gotten the engine started briefly , timing was way out of whack and the engine was running poorly, no no spark again. Prior to installation I was using an MSD Atomic EFI and engine ran great but I needed more fuel for the addition of a Pro Charger. Help please I have tried all trouble shooting I can think of. Thank you
will a mopar 2 wire distributor work? thank you phil
I dont recommend the use of one as they are not reliable but I have had customers use them successfully. We would prefer a 2-wire magnetic pickup distributor such as a pro billet MSD or equivalent distributor.
tried finding an adjustable rotor to phase it in the directions msd rep said he didn’t know of one for dodge. so if im stuck using the mopar performance distributor until I find one. lock it out set it at 10 degrees at idle and compare target timing with actual?? trying to make sensoe of the directions fitech adjusts it up to 30 degrees??
Up to 30 degrees over the base timing. In your case it would be 40 degrees.
I am running a Mallory 685 cdi box with hei distributor. What should I fix my distributor to for best ignition control? And would the green trigger wire be the same as the points Input wire on your diagrams?
Also is there any way of having an input to show oil pressure and even do a engine cut if oil pressure drops.? (Power adder version.)
Timing control was designed to work with a 2-wire magnetic pickup distributor such as a MSD pro billet. Any distributor outside of this 2-wire type distributor may work but we don’t condone the use of due to custom modification.
There is no way to add inputs for oil pressure.
Will a Mallory Unilite dist work with the FiTech?
Those distributors require to a ballast resistor to operate which will cause issues with the EFI’s tach input reading. You will need to either contact Mallory on if you can remove the ballast or replace your ignition with a 12 volt ignition system.
I made the car run without an adjustable rotor using your timing control, but decided to do it like it is described in your documentation with an adjustable rotor? I came up with the following question based on your use of 10 degrees BTDC on the harmonic balancer for dropping in the distributor.
If I were to drop my distributor in at 16 degrees BTDC on the harmonic balancer, would I enter 16 for base timing, and set the adjustable rotor at the 7 degree mark (14 degrees BTDC on the crank) to get a total of 30 degrees BTDC on the crank?
Phasing the rotor of a distributor has nothing to do with engine time. It changes the location of the rotor in relation to the cap terminal when the spark event happens. This is done to reduce the length the spark has to jump from the rotor to the cap terminal.
If you set distributor base timing to 16 degrees in the handheld and stab the distributor in as the same your initial timing should be at 16 degrees BTDC. This ultimately needs to be synced but is should be close.
I’ve just installed my 600hp kit on my 5.7 ls1 and it is running great, just wanted to asked what ignition you guys are running and where you took the tach supply from? I’m running msd 6ls, when I first wired it up I soldered my fitech tach feed to my msd/auto meter wire. When I started the car the handheld was frozen and showing 59000rpm and my autometer tach wouldn’t work. As soon as I cut the auto meter tach wire out everything for the fitech worked great but now have no tacho or shift light. Any advice you guys can offer?
I also have a separate 12volt supply switch in my car which powers up my msd box, i have run my fitech 12volt switch wire off this also, could that be creating the issue such as jambling the tach signal? i didnt think it was that seeing as it is all fine when the autometer tacho wire is cut out.
The correct spot for the tach input is to the 6LS tach out wire. I think it is gray. If you are getting RPM noise be sure to isolate the blue wire away from as much ignition wiring as possible. Looming it into the driver box wiring will cause your issue.
Sbf 351 with msd dizzy, and 6al BTM. System is set up for fitech to manage timing and I cannot get spark or startup?
I have everything wired correctly (triple checked), when cranking my handheld shuts off and then starts back up volts dip to 11.ish when on the starter but still nothing?
Can the fitech manage timing with MSD 6al or does it place too much load on system? I have it relayed in with both key triggers on same line fed directly by battery shows 11.ish on crank.
Wondering why system shuts down? Also, system gets fuel and F.P. come on with key switch and Co tines to run during cranking
I’m stumped… help. My old carb with msd running timing with BTM was rock solid… this is just causing me headaches….
Last question.. can Fitech manage timing along with boost refrence requirement as a stand alone? Maybe I’m just asking too much electrical out if the system with msd coil, box, and dizzy and having fitech run the show all at once?
If the EFI’s Handheld is shutting off during cranking it is low cranking voltage. Be sure that the RED battery wire goes DIRECTLY to the positive post of the battery.
Timing control requires you to build the ignition curve and allows you to pull timing under boost.
What model/type is the 2-wire distributor Terminal? I want to buy a Pigtail Harness to fabric an “Plug and Play” Adapter Harness for my Mopar Distributor.
I’m a Mopar Guy and not so familiar with the GM Parts.
The 2-wire plug is what MSD uses for it’s 2-wire distributors. It became an industry standard now so almost all 2-wire distributors use them now.
I’ve ordered the 600hp injection system. I’m running the MSD 6ls ignition system on a 5.3. How do I connect the FItech unit to the ignition box? Can I adjust the timing with this unit?
You are not able to do timing control because your engine lacks a distributor. You have to use the conventional tach input.
What distributor do you recommend in a 502.
I’d prefer to run a seperate coil but not opposed to an HEI unit.
Stock application and I will not be locking out the timing.
If you are not doing ignition control you need a 12 volt ignition system like a ready to run distributor or a HEI. You do NOT lock out these distributors.
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